LAD MUSICIAN has attracted many fans with its original creations that depict the delicate inner world of human beings. Since the brand was founded in 1995, it has established a one-of-a-kind vision by taking a unique approach based on the concept of “combining music and clothing.” Designer Kuroda talks about part of the creative process, which he describes as introspective and nihilistic, and which ” does not aim to be understood by others.”
※We are pleased to share additional stories from our interview with designer Yuichi Kuroda that could not be included in the pages of gap PRESS vol.182, now available on our website.
How do you get inspiration for your collections each season?毎シーズン発表されるコレクションのインスピレーションはどのように得ているのでしょうか？
I always try to be interested in the things happening around me every day. For example, the 2024-25 Fall/Winter collection themed on Osamu Dazai was inspired by my son playing the song “No Longer Human” on YouTube one day. It reminded me that “No Longer Human” is the title of a work by Osamu Dazai, and I wanted to read it again after a long time, so I bought the complete works on Kindle.
That collection started from a casual conversation with your son. The fact that it was all about music is what makes it so LAD MUSICIAN.あのコレクションは息子さんとの何気ない会話から始まったんですね。音楽を介しているあたりにLAD MUSICIANらしさを感じます。
Dazai’s Complete Works were so interesting that I read almost the whole thing, even skipping sleep. “No Longer Human” and “Justice and Smile” were especially interesting. As I read them, my mind was completely filled with Osamu Dazai, and I decided to make that the theme of my collection.
What was the process of interpreting Dazai into clothing?太宰をどのようなプロセスで服へと落とし込んでいくのでしょうか？
There is a wealth of direct material about Dazai, such as photographs and books, so I reflected on his lifestyle and incorporated the silhouettes of his hakama and kimono. I think that reflecting on such a superficial image is easy to understand and is suitable for a fashion collection. On the other hand, I felt that there was a deeper darkness in the type of nihilism that ultimately led to Dazai’s self-destruction, which goes beyond the popular interpretation.
Certainly, Dazai's literature strongly reflects his own thoughts and sense of humanity, so I'm strongly drawn to his artistic qualities. I also feel there is a commonality with your creations.確かに、太宰文学には彼自身の思想や人間性が強く反映されているので、その芸術性にますます魅了されます。そして、どこか黒田さんのクリエーションにも共通性を感じます。
When I was thinking of a sound that would fit the image of such a dark Dazai, the sound of the Wandelweiser genre linked perfectly to my mind. Wandelweiser Group is a school of modern music that produces a nihilistic sound by leaving a very long pause between one sound and the next. The title is “No Longer Human” for the sake of clarity, but in reality it is a collection that combines the images of Osamu Dazai and the Wandelweiser. Because the sounds that flow in the essential parts behind the invisible parts are different, I think you will get a different impression from the image of Dazai that most other people have.
The connection between Dazai and Wandelweiser is highly original. Does sound lie at the heart of your creations?太宰とヴァンデルヴァイザーをリンクさせるところがオリジナルですね。やはり、音が黒田さんのクリエーションのコアな部分を形成しているんですね。
Yes, it’s such an important element that it’s no exaggeration to say it’s essential to everything. I expand on my ideas from sound, and add contours and coloring from similar art, architectural styles, and colors. Of course, I also refer to photo books and the internet, but sometimes information I get from my eyes can be troublesome and I’m easily influenced by unnecessary things. It’s not that that’s a bad thing, just that it doesn’t create originality.
I see, now I have a better understanding of the process of turning an image into reality. On the other hand, the fittings, where you try on the clothes yourself, are also an essential aspect, wouldn't you say?なるほど、イメージを具現化していくプロセスが少し理解できました。一方で、黒田さん自ら試着をする仮縫いも欠かせない要素ですよね。
Our senses shift and evolve from day to day. For example, with T-shirts, instead of abruptly shifting to oversized styles, I go back and forth between just the right size, pursuing realism until I’m satisfied with the feel. Even with a single T-shirt, I make revisions to the silhouette and specifications every season. I’ve continued to pour time and effort into such small details.
You could say that LAD MUSICIAN's true value lies in its craftsmanship and in its sensitivity.感覚的ともいえる職人気質のこだわりが、LAD MUSICIANの真骨頂といえますね。
Rather than being particular, I just can’t settle down. I buy T-shirts from brands other than my own for reference, but they never feel right. Even today (the day of the interview), I can’t wear this shirt unless it’s with this texture. I usually have a pretty fixed style, but once I decide on it, I can’t accept anything else. Even if I like the bottoms I was wearing until last week, once I find my next favorite, I can’t go back to the previous style. I might be a little pathological in that way.
So you do seem very dependent on your senses.たしかに感覚への依存度が高めかもしれません。
Speaking of pathological, designers often touch materials to check their texture. In my case, this has caused the nerves in my fingertips to become a bit messed up, so if I use my thumb, index finger, and middle finger to touch a piece of clothing or material I don’t like for a while, the pads of my fingers become rough. And I immediately want to wash my hands with soap. Like a raccoon (laughs).
Do you also choose your materials based on your sensory perception?素材も同じように感覚を重視してセレクトするのでしょうか。
Yes. At first, I went for high-end materials like cashmere, but eventually I felt something was not quite right and went back to my favorite materials that I had always used. In the end, the quality of a material is not a matter of whether it is expensive or cheap, but rather I try to choose fabrics that feel natural to me. I have been making these choices for 30 years and have come this far.
Finally, please tell us what you pay the most attention to having continued producing your creations for 30 years.最後に、30年クリエーションを続ける上で、一番気を遣っていることを教えてください。
Physical fitness may be the most important aspect. I used to go to the gym and ride a road bike, but I stopped because of the effects of COVID-19 and the strain it puts on my body. In my case, it seems to be more effective to directly stimulate the bones, so now I jump 500 times with a heavy skipping rope and do pull-ups in a nearby park. I also need to maintain my figure by trying on fittings. I pay particular attention to my health.
Editor's Note "Interview with Yuichi Kuroda"インタビュー編集後記
I always get very nervous when I interview a designer, but this time was particularly special. Kuroda is a graduate of the vocational school I attended and the designer of LAD MUSICIAN. I have admired him since I was a student, but I also felt a huge distance between us. Kuroda is a delicate and taciturn person, and he is memorable for always wearing stylish sunglasses. He is a legend with a unique aura that makes him unapproachable.
However, when I actually met Kuroda, he was very friendly and charming with a gentle demeanor. What I felt from the interview was his high level of awareness as a creator and his strong commitment to craftsmanship that adheres to his own philosophy. The LAD collection, which goes beyond the boundaries of fashion and has an artistic value, truly reflects Kuroda’s philosophy and way of life.
A documentary video of LAD MUSICIAN Spring & Summer 2025 collection, held to commemorate the 30th anniversary, has been uploaded to their YouTube! Please take a look!
