The design is based on memories from a trip to Romania we took as a team. A painting of an old European castle is decorated with patchwork and embroidery to create a fantastical atmosphere. The inspiration for this season is the image of wandering through a slightly disturbing and fantastical “night forest,” and the designs were filled with nostalgia and the romantic vibes of old Eastern Europe,with a castle slowly emerging from among the trees.

Those knitwear pieces were the only things I had in mind at the early stages of developing the collection, and they were created with a motif of dead leaves put together with a student from an art school in Berlin who came to work for us as an intern for six months. Because of that process, I personally have a special attachment to it. She is skilled in knitting techniques, and while creating them we discussed even the smallest details, from the selection of yarn and knitting methods to the dyeing techniques to reproduce the colors of dead leaves.

Yes. Our design team is made up of staff who were originally good at making patterns, so we are constantly updating our three-dimensional patterns. We also incorporate traditional handmade techniques such as garment processing and Indian-style hand embroidery. We don’t often get the feeling that prints and colors make us feel good, so updating the details and shapes is what makes us feel fresh.

Until last year we were a team of three, but now we’re up to six. As the director, I set the overall direction, and I am in charge of creating the image, organizing items, merchandising, and so on. On top of that, I am responsible for drawing up the overall plan, as well as making best use of the perspectives and skills of each team member. The team structure is the same as other apparel companies, with production management, pattern makers, sales, etc. However, we all come up with ideas together, and we have many discussions, riffing off each other’s “preferences” and “strengths.” I think that the ability to create such real products as a team is what makes KHOKI unique. Recently, we have increased the number of members and established a new structure, and I feel that our potential as a team has grown even further.

The team has a well-established ecosystem. We have a lot of design ideas, and we’re always circulating and polishing them. Some staff members are familiar with vintage clothing, while others are familiar with American culture, such as vintage bikes. Some like grotesque sculptors, like H.R. Giger, who designed “Alien.” Because everyone has completely different tastes and preferences, when we mix our “likes,” we create something unique and interesting. I think that’s our greatest strength.

Rather than a hierarchical style of creation where you just follow someone’s instructions, we value that all team members think and take responsibility for their work. I think that everyone shares the same level of attitude toward manufacturing, such as the standards for quality and lines that cannot be crossed. I feel that this high level of awareness supports the foundations of the KHOKI design team.

I think the value of fashion week itself is changing, including the system itself. Nowadays, anyone can self-produce, so I get the impression that consumers admire sophisticated editorial and things that express the community well on social media. Ten years ago, there may have still been many people who admired runway shows in Paris. Nowadays, there are more and more brands that place emphasis on communicating their ideas to people directly within their reach. This awareness is especially strong among my generation and younger generations. I am always on the lookout for ways to express myself more directly to consumers.

We won’t hold a show every season. It’s healthier for us to choose the presentation format, depending on the team’s mood and the situation each time. It may be a different way of thinking from the traditional fashion flow, but we want to continue to explore ways of showing our products that are unique to KHOKI and resonate with our customers.

There were two things that impressed me during my interview with the KHOKI design team. The first was the flexible and free imagination that can only be achieved by a team of members with different personalities. Their creations, which are not bound by preconceived notions such as era or genre, but instead focus simply on their own feelings, truly symbolize the coming age of diversity. Another thing is KHOKI’s philosophy of pursuing a sense of closeness between customers and the team, which is reflected not only in the products but also in the operation of their EC site（eye） and the way the brand presents its worldview. I was very inspired by their sincere attitude of facing customers and paying close attention to every detail in order to convey the team’s values.

In today’s fashion industry, where it is undeniable that consumers are being left behind, this interview gave me a chance to reconsider “What is the value of a brand?” The key to opening up the future may lie in customers and brands building “empathy” together. “After all, we want people to be excited about fashion,” they said, and I’m excited to see what the future holds for them.

KHOKI OFFICIAL Instagram

https://www.instagram.com/khoki146/

KHOKI EC Site “eye”

https://eye-khoki.com/

You can purchase the issue featuring the full story interview here.

gap PRESS vol.185